rohae, the tea of tomorrow: the art of traditional Korean tea in the hands of a descendant of Kim Si-hyeok

deep-rooted tradition meets global flair

kim was inspired by the 70-plus tea records left behind in Kim Si-hyeok’s poetry collection, Maewoldangjip. after returning from the U.S. in 2019, he continued his field research, traveling to tea gardens and temples in Jeonnam and Gyeongnam. His background in art history and experience working at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City provided the foundation for a new translation of Korean tea aesthetics in a global context, rather than simply preserving tradition.

“Japanese and Chinese teas have already established themselves as strong content, but Korean teas are rarely presented in a refined way,” says Kim, “and I wanted to showcase the Korean aesthetic through tea as an interdisciplinary art form.”

a thatched roof inspired space, ‘Rohae Seoul’

rohae Seoul, which opened in August in Gangnam, is an embodiment of his philosophy. rather than focusing on the glamorous court culture, he wanted to reveal the simple and unpretentious Korean aesthetic by using the motif of a thatched house, which was once the home of the common people.

thesignboard reads, ‘[translate:和開是序廬]’: ‘A scholar’s thatch built on harmony’, reflecting the spirit of the Joseon tea planters who practiced emptiness and simplicity.

space organization: the floor carpet, which looks like it’s made of woven straw, the pine pillars that withstand the sea breeze and reveal the essence of nature, the wooden cabinets and the chairs by artist Minjae Kim, all embody the Korean aesthetic.

bringing back the original ‘ssaksulcha’

the inaugural exhibition at Lohae Seoul brings jakssul tea back to the present day, based on the writings of Joseon sages. “Jakssul,” which means small, delicate tea leaves like a sparrow’s tongue, was the original name for Korean tea before it became known as “green tea” during the Japanese occupation. Visitors can experience its origins by tasting this year’s harvest of jakssul tea in the manner described in The Monthly Dangjip.

interestingly, the refreshments served with the tea are not traditional Korean sweets, but chocolate. this is an attempt to translate the historical fact that chocolate was known as ‘jogoryeongdang’ in the late Joseon Dynasty into contemporary language. In addition, ‘bongdancha’, a reproduction of the tea-making recipe left by Dasan Jeong Yak-yong, along with soban and ceramics, are used to recreate the scenery of traditional tea culture in a modern way.

“Bitter, cool, and savory flavors all coexist in Korean tea, and this multi-layered flavor is what makes Korean tea unique,” says Kim Dong-hyun. rohae plans to continue researching various Korean tea archetypes to create a dialog that goes beyond just the taste, connecting old memories and current tastes.

ADD: 20, Yeongdong-daero 129-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul | INSTAGRAM: @rohae.seoul

frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q. is ‘jakssul tea’ different from green tea?

A. Ssaksulcha is our own name for a tea made from very young tea leaves picked in early spring. The term “green tea” is a Japanese expression that became popular during the Japanese occupation, and Ssaksulcha can be seen as the prototype of Korean green tea, as well as a term for a high-end tea.

Q. can I only drink tea at LOHAB Seoul?

A. No. LOHA Seoul is not only a tea drinking space, but also a multi-cultural space that offers exhibitions and experiences that are a modern interpretation of traditional Korean tea culture. currently, an exhibition on the theme of “Jaksul Tea” is ongoing, and various programs related to tea will be held in the future.

Q. who is Kim Si-hoon?

A. He was a literary figure and scholar in the early Joseon Dynasty (Sejong~Seongjong). He used the calligraphy of ‘monthly dang’ and is known for writing the first Korean novel in Korean, ‘Geumo Shinhwa’. He loved tea so much that he left an important mark on the history of Korean tea culture, writing over 70 poems about tea.