dario Vitale’s first Versace: a bold return to the roots

after Donatella Versace stepped down as chief creative officer, a position she held for 28 years, the fashion world’s attention was riveted as Dario Vitale ‘s first collection for Versacefinally lifted the veil. The Spring/Summer ’26 collection marked the beginning of the ‘New Versace’, a seamless interpretation of the bold energy of the house’s roots under Gianni Versace, in a contemporary language.

sacred and Sensual: Pinacoteca Ambrosiana

milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, where the show took place, is a breathing space for historical masterpieces and a former private residence. in this hallowed space, Vitale created dramatic tension by contrasting Versace’s signature uninhibited freedom, tactile pleasure, and wild sensuality.

a modern reimagining of the archives

this collection is no mere retro reenactment: it draws inspiration from the vast archive of Gianni Versace’s letters, photographs, and artwork to create new connections between clothes, attitudes, and sensations.

a blend of high and low

typical Italian elegance coexists with bold impulses. signature pieces like negligee, denim, leather, and colorful printed shirts were reimagined from the archives. Layering – knits and shirts over blousons, patched leather, metallic embellishments, and elaborate beading – created a sophisticated tension between classicism and street sensibility.

living, breathing silhouettes

vitale’s clothes are designed for real bodies, not mannequins. The fabrics flow naturally with the body’s movements, and the uninhibited silhouettes and drapes speak to a free-spirited attitude toward life. in the men’s looks, the contrast between boldly exposed torsos and textured materials creates a strong sense of sensuality.

decadent tonal prints and ornate details are in keeping with the Versace identity, but with Dario Vitale’s youthful and down-to-earth touch, making us excited for what’s to come.