in a city where something new is emerging every day, Namsan is a special place that has stood the test of time. on this tour of Namsan’s modern and contemporary architecture, we tracethe memories and stories of Seoul’s past through its alleys and buildings.

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picnic: Remembering the Life of a Space, Autobiography of The Hilton Seoul

designed by architect Kim Jong-sung in 1983, the Hilton Seoul, a symbol of Korean modernist architecture, is being demolished for redevelopment. hilton Seoul Autobiography, on view at Picnic, a multidisciplinary cultural space, is an exhibition that restores and celebrates the building’s 40 years of existence. on the ground floor, an installation by artist Jiwoo Seo transforms the building’s materiality using demolition materials.

an archive of history and memory

as you ascend the floors, the exhibition takes you into the intimate memories of Hilton Seoul. correspondence from the time of construction, operational materials, and the discourse surrounding its demolition are presented in archival form, inviting visitors to confront the space as a life rather than just a building. The Christmas decorations on the fourth floor recall the hotel’s lobby at its most glorious, a poignant farewell to a vanishing space.

address: 30, Deunggye-ro 6-ga-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul

la Cantina: A legacy of flavor since 1967

if you’re hungry after visiting the exhibition, Lacantina in the basement of the Euljiro Samsung Building is the place to go. opened in 1967, it was the first Italian restaurant in Korea, a favorite of the late chairman Lee Byung-chul, and the moment you walk in, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

a taste of Italy only in Seoul

with decades of history behind it, the menu is both authentic and Korean, showcasing the “Italian in Seoul. the signature dish is the vongole pasta, which is made with fresh ingredients and flavors. enjoying a plate of pasta in the majestic setting is more than just a meal, it’s an experience of Seoul’s modern gastronomic culture.

address: B1F, Samsung Building, 19 Euljiro-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul

gabae Do Namdaemun Market Branch: Walk through Gyeongseong 100 years ago

nestled amongst a forest of skyscrapers is Cafe Gabado, a restored red brick two-story hanok shop from the 1910s and ’20s. the two-story hanok storefronts, which were rare at the time, evoke the scenery of Gyeongseong in bloom. the tranquil wooden interior and decorative items provide a calming respite from the hustle and bustle of modern life, transporting you back in time 100 years.

address: 11 Namdaemun-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul

ahn Jung-geun Memorial & Democracy Movement Memorial: A space to remember history

at the foot of Namsan Mountain, the Ahn Joong-geun Medical Memorial Hall stands on the site of the former Japanese Namsan Shrine, a symbolic space that honors the history of shame and independence. just walking through the building is designed to remind visitors of Dr. Ahn’s noble spirit and the significance of the times.

a little further away, the Democracy Movement Memorial Hall in Namyeong-dong (formerly the Daegong Bunsil in Namyeong-dong), designed by architect Kim Soo-geun, preserves the original building as a reminder of the history of the democracy movement and torture, a painful memory of Korea’s modern history. it’s a meaningful end to an architectural tour that asks the question of what values and memories are more important to us than the shiny new.

ahn Jung-geun Memorial Hall Address: 91 Sowol-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul
democratic Movement Memorial Hall: 37, Hangangdae-ro 71-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea